FREE KNITTING PATTERN: THE ONNI BEANIE

pattern

Want to make the matching mittens as well? Find the free pattern for the Onni mittens here!

Hi everyone! You have no idea how happy and excited I am to release this beanie pattern so without further ado: ladies and gents, may I present to you The Onni beanie! Onni is the Finnish word for happiness and what would be happier than a warm and cozy hat to protect you from those crisp and chilly winter days. This beanie has an intermediate cable pattern, a double brim and thanks to the bulky yarn, it works up in no time!

pattern

In this free pattern you’ll find full written instructions on how to make the beanie from start to finish with both bulky and super bulky yarn, and a knitting chart for the pattern as well. The pattern is actually worked like any other cable pattern or chart would be (even if it doesn’t really look like cables…) but don’t let the cables scare you – once you get the hang of the pattern you’ll be knitting the beanie up in no time! There’s also a tutorial on my blog for a cabled cowl which includes a video on how to knit basic and braided cables (the video doesn’t include the cables used in this design but it gives you a better overall idea of how to slip stitches in the front or the back side of the work and so creating cables)! In this beanie pattern, by slipping stitches onto the cable needle you’re actually changing the places of the knit and purl stitches and this way creating the diamond like shape.

pattern

Click here for the free mitten pattern!

If at any point you have any questions don’t hesitate to leave a comment on this post or send me an email at kati@katimaaria.com!

Also if you share a picture of the beanie on Instagram, please tag me @katimaariaknits and use the hashtag #onnibeanie – I can’t wait to see your designs! You may also sell the finished product but please give credit to the designer.

Find this pattern on Ravelry by clicking here!

So let’s get to it!

pattern

MEASUREMENTS

One size (adults): height with the brim folded 22cm/8.5 inches, circumference approximately 55-57 cm/21-22.5 inches

YARN & NEEDLE DETAILS AND VARIATIONS

First things first: if you identify yourself as a tight knitter, go for bigger needles!

The pattern is designed for both bulky (weight category #5) and super bulky yarn (weight category #6).

The chunky pink beanie in the pictures is knit with double stranded bulky yarn (Phil Looping by Phildar, find it here!) using 8mm/US 11 needles and following the pattern for the bulky (#5) version.

The beige beanie is knit with double stranded worsted yarn (Alpaca Wool by Novita, find it here!) using 8mm/US 11 needles and following the pattern for the bulky (#5) version.

MATERIALS

  • For the bulky version (yarn weight category #5):
    – 8mm/US 11 circular needles (Ø 40cm/16”) or DPNs OR any needles to obtain the gauge
    – Approximately 108m/119 yards of bulky yarn (weight category #5) with the following gauge: 10×10 cm/4×4″ of stockinette stitch with 8mm/US 11 needles = 12 stitches, 14 rows
    – I used a double stranded bulky weight yarn for the pink beanie (Phil Looping by Phildar, find it here!) and a double stranded aran weight yarn for the beige beanie (Alpaca Wool by Novita, find it here!)
  • For the super bulky version (yarn weight category #6):
    – 10mm/US 13 circular needles (Ø 40cm/16”) or DPNs OR any needles to obtain the gauge
    – Approximately 85m/92 yards of super bulky yarn (weight category #6) with the following gauge: 10×10 cm/4×4″ of stockinette stitch with 10mm/US 13 needles = 9 stitches, 12 rows
    – Yarn recommendation: Lion Brand Yarn’s Wool Ease Thick & Quick, find it here!
    —–
  • Cable needle or extra DPN
  • Tapestry needle
  • Optional:
    – 6mm/US 10 DPNs for decreasing
    – extra yarn for pompom
    – pompom maker

ABBREVIATIONS

K = knit
P = purl
M1 = make one stitch by picking up the yarn in between two stitches with your left needle and knitting it through the back loop
C5Fa = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1 stitch and then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.
C3B = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in back of work. Knit 2 stitches, then purl 1 stitch from the cable needle.
C3F = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Purl 1 stitch, then knit 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C5Fb = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Purl 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches and then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.
C4F = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
P2tog = purl 2 stitches together

BRIM

Cast on 44 stitches on your 8mm/US 11 or 10mm/US 13 (for super bulky version) circular needles (Ø 40cm/16”).

*K1, P1* all around (round 1 of the brim) and repeat round 1 for another 21 times / 19 times for super bulky, knitting a total of 22 rounds / 20 rounds for super bulky for the brim or until the brim measures 15cm/6 inches.

INCREASE ROUND

If you’re making the super bulky version, knit all stitches on this round without making any increases!

Knit all stitches on this round, including the stitches you increase. You’ll add 11 stitches on this round, adding the total number of stitches from 44 to 55.

*M1, K4* repeat all around.

BEANIE

Here you’ll find the written instructions for each round of the beanie all the way until the end. There’s also a knitting chart for the cable pattern right after these written instructions, so if you love reading charts like me you can scroll your way there! On the chart you’ll have the pattern for rows 1-23, after which you’ll need to return to the written instructions for the decreases.

Round 1: *P3, C5Fa, P3* repeat all around
Round 2: *P3, K5, P3* repeat all around
Round 3: *P2, C3B, P1, C3F, P2* repeat all around
Round 4: *P2, K7, P2* repeat all around
Round 5: *P1, C3B, P3, C3F, P1* repeat all around
Round 6: *P1, K9, P1* repeat all around
Round 7: *C3B, P5, C3F* repeat all around
Round 8: Knit all stitches
Round 9: *K2, P7, K2* repeat all around
Round 10: Knit all stitches
Round 11: *K2, P7, K2* repeat all around
Round 12: Knit all stitches

  • if you’re making the super bulky version, skip rounds 13-16 and continue knitting from round 17 onward!

Round 13: *K2, P7, K2* repeat all around
Round 14: Knit all stitches
Round 15: *K2, P7, K2* repeat all around
Round 16: Knit all stitches
Round 17: *C3F, P5, C3B* repeat all around
Round 18: *P1, K9, P1* repeat all around
Round 19: *P1, C3F, P3, C3B, P1* repeat all around
Round 20: *P2, K7, P2* repeat all around
Round 21: *P2, C3F, P1, C3B, P2* repeat all around
Round 22: *P3, K5, P3* repeat all around
Round 23: *P3, C5Fb, P3* repeat all around

This is where the knitting chart (see below) ends and the decreases begin!

Decreasing

Round 24: *P2tog, P2tog, K4, P2tog, P1* repeat all around

  • Tip for the bulky (#5) version: after the first round of decreases I change to my 6mm/US 10 DPNs in order to avoid stretching the beanie too much as it gets smaller and also to not make any loose stitches or holes in the work while decreasing. I divide the stitches on 4 needles so that I have 8 stitches per needle on the three first needles and 16 stitches on the last needle!

Round 25: *P2, K4, P2* repeat all around
Round 26: *P2tog, C4F, P2tog* repeat all around
Round 27: *P1, K4, P1* repeat all around
Round 28: *P1, K2tog, K2tog, P1* repeat all aroun

  • if you’re making the super bulky version, you can already end the work after finishing round 28: cut yarn and pull through remaining 16 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.

Round 29: *P1, K2, P1* repeat all around
Round 30: *P1, K2tog, P1* repeat all around

Cut yarn and pull through remaining 15 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.

KNITTING CHART

And here’s the visual for the cable pattern! This covers rounds 1-23 of the beanie, after which you’ll start decreasing (no chart for the decreasing part so head back up a little to see the written instructions and rounds 24-30!).

pattern

Click the image to open it bigger!

And there you have it, your Onni beanie is now ready (you see, I told you it would work up in no time)!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and will be making all the beanies for the winter!

PDF-VERSION

You can now also download a print-friendly PDF-version of the pattern – this way, you’ll always have the design easily at hand wherever you go! The PDF-version is currently only available in Finnish but I’m working hard on writing the English version so stay tuned!

Onni Pipo tulostettava versio

xx, Kati

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FREE KNITTING PATTERN: THE ONNI MITTENS

mitten pattern

Want to make the matching beanie as well? Find the free pattern for the Onni beanie here!

Hi there folks, so glad to see you’ve found your way to this free mitten pattern so let me present to you: The Onni Mittens! Onni is the Finnish word for happiness and if you ask me, keeping your hands warm when the first snow falls and  you’re drinking hot chocolate from a take away cup while enjoying the cool, crisp air should definitely be the dictionary definition of comfy (might’ve gotten a little poetic there but let me have my delusions about the perfect winter that doesn’t include rain, wind that makes the snow hurt your face and gloomy skies!). But anyway, back to the mittens. They have an intermediate cable pattern, a double cuff and thanks to the bulky yarn, they work up in no time!

mitten pattern

In this free pattern you’ll find full written instructions on how to make the mittens from start to finish and a knitting chart for the pattern as well. The pattern is actually worked like any other cable pattern or chart would be (even if it doesn’t really look like traditional cables…) but don’t let the cables scare you – once you get the hang of the pattern you’ll be knitting the mittens up in no time! There’s also a tutorial on my blog for a cabled cowl which includes a video on how to knit basic and braided cables (the video doesn’t include the cables used in this design but it gives you a better overall idea of how to slip stitches in the front or the back side of the work and so creating cables)! In this mitten pattern, by slipping stitches onto the cable needle you’re actually changing the places of the knit and purl stitches and this way creating the diamond like shape.

mitten pattern

Click here for the free beanie pattern!

If at any point you have any questions don’t hesitate to leave a comment on this post or send me an email at kati@katimaaria.com!

Also if you share a picture of the mittens on Instagram, please tag me @katimaariaknits and use the hashtag #onnimittens – I can’t wait to see your designs! You may also sell the finished product but please give credit to the designer.

Find this pattern on Ravelry by clicking here!

So let’s get knitting!

mitten pattern

MEASUREMENTS

One size, will fit an average woman. Length with the cuff folded: approximately 24cm/9.4 inches

YARN & NEEDLE VARIATIONS

First things first: if you identify yourself as a tight knitter, opt for bigger needles!

The pattern is designed for bulky yarn (weight category #5) and 6mm/US 10 needles. If you wish to make the mittens more chunky you can choose a  bulkier yarn or for example knit with double stranded bulky yarn (like I did with the pink mittens) but keep the needle size at 6mm/US 10 or any needle size to obtain the gauge. I’ve found that this way, you’ll get more texture to the work but as the needle size remains the same and rather small for chunkier yarn, the gauge doesn’t radically change and you can still follow this pattern from start to finish.

For example, the chunky pink mittens in the pictures are knit with double stranded bulky yarn (Phil Looping by Phildar, find it here!) using 6mm/US 10 needles.

The grey mittens are knit with double stranded worsted yarn (Alpaca Wool by Novita, find it here!) using 6mm/US 10 needles, making the yarn an equivalent to a category #5 yarn.

MATERIALS

  • 6mm/US 10 DPNs or any needles to obtain the gauge (if you’re a tight knitter, give 8mm/US 11 needles a try for example!)
  • Approximately 100m/109 yards of bulky yarn (weight category #5) with the following gauge: 10x10cm/4×4″ of stockinette stitch with 6mm/US 10 needles = 14 stitches, 22 rows
  • Cable needle or extra DPN
  • A little piece of contrasting color yarn for the thumb hole
  • Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATIONS

K = knit
P = purl
M1 = make one stitch by picking up the yarn in between two stitches with your left needle and knitting it through the back loop
C3F = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch and then knit 1 stitch from cable needle.
C2B = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in back of work. Knit 1 stitch and then purl 1 from cable needle.
C2F = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Purl 1 stitch and then knit 1 from cable needle.
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
Skp = slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch

CUFF

Cast on 24 stitches on your 6mm/US 10 needles. Work the mittens with 4 needles: keep the work on 3 needles in a triangle shape and knit with the fourth one. Share the stitches evenly so that you have 8 stitches per needle. The beginning of the round is between the 1st and the 3rd needle (see needle map below!).

mitten pattern

Click the image to open it bigger!

Join the work in the round and *K1, P1* all around (round 1) and repeat round 1 for another 17 times, knitting a total of 18 rounds for the cuff or until it measures 10cm/4 inches.

INCREASE ROUND

1st needle: no increases, knit 8 stitches
2nd needle: increase 3 stitches evenly, for example in the following way:

  • K1, M1, K3, M1, K3, M1, K1

3rd needle: no increases, knit 8 stitches

BODY

After the increases, you’ll have 27 stitches on the work: 8 stitches on needle 1, 11 stitches on needle 2 and 8 stitches on needle 3. You’ll knit stockinette stitch on the 1st and the 3rd needle until the end of the mitten and work the cable pattern on the 2nd needle.

The following written instructions are only for the 2nd needle, knit stockinette stitch on the 1st and the 3rd needle.

Round 1: K1, P3, C3F, P3, K1
Round 2: K1, P3, K3, P3, K1
Round 3: K1, P2, C2B, P1, C2F, P2, K1
Round 4: K1, P2, K5, P2, K1
Round 5: K1, P1, C2B, P3, C2F, P1, K1
Round 6: K1, P1, K7, P1, K1
Round 7: K1, P1, K1, P5, K1, P1, K1
Round 8: K1, P1, K7, P1, K1
Round 9: K1, P1, C2F, P3, C2B, P1, K1
Round 10: K1, P2, K5, P2, K1
Round 11: K1, P2, C2F, P1, C2B, P2, K1
Round 12: K1, P3, K3, P3, K1

The knitting chart for the cable pattern can be found at the end of the post!

Repeat rounds 1-12 twice more (you’ll knit the rounds three times total) and finish by knitting round 1 once more before starting the decreases.

When you’re knitting rounds 1-12 for the second time, make the thumb hole on round 4 (round 16 on the total row count after starting the cable pattern).

  • For the right mitten, make the thumb hole on the 3rd needle: knit 2 stitches, then knit 4 stitches with a contrasting color yarn and move these 4 stitches back to the left hand needle. Finish the needle by knitting stockinette stitch and continue onto round 5.
  • For the left mitten, make the thumb hole on the 1st needle: knit 2 stitches, then knit 4 stitches with a contrasting color yarn and move these 4 stitches back to the left hand needle. Finish the needle by knitting stockinette stitch and continue the round normally.

Decreasing

Round 1:

  • 1st needle: K5, K2tog, K1
  • 2nd needle: skp, K7, K2tog
  • 3rd needle: K1, skp, K5
  • stitch count after the round: 23

Round 2:

  • 1st needle: K4, K2 tog, K1
  • 2nd needle: skp, K5, K2tog
  • 3rd needle: K1, skp, K4
  • stitch count after the round: 19

Round 3:

  • 1st needle: K3, K2tog, K1
  • 2nd needle: skp, K3, K2tog
  • 3rd needle: K1, skp, K3
  • stitch count after the round: 15

Round 4:

  • 1st needle: K2, K2tog, K1
  • 2nd needle: skp, K1, K2tog
  • 3rd needle: K1, skp, K2
  • stitch count after the round: 11

Round 5:

  • 1st needle: K1, K2tog, K1
  • 2nd needle: K3
  • 3rd needle: K1, skp, K1
  • stitch count after the round: 9

Cut yarn and pull through remaining 9 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.

Thumb

Remove the help yarn and pick up the 7 stitches the yarn was holding. Pick up 5 extra stitches from around the thumb hole adding the total amount of stitches to 12 (if you want to make a bigger thumb you can pick more stitches from around the thumb hole). Share the stitches evenly on 3 needles so that you have 4 stitches per needle. To avoid stretching the stitches and making holes at the core of the thumb, knit all the stitches through the back loop on the first round. After the first round, continue knitting stockinette stitch until the thumb covers approximately half of your thumb nail.

Decrease by knitting 2 stitches together at the end of every needle (repeat on every round) until you have a total of 6 stitches left on the thumb. Cut yarn and pull through remaining 6 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.

KNITTING CHART

And here’s the visual for the cable pattern! After knitting the cuff, you’ll repeat rows 1-12 for a total of three times and then knit row 1 once more before starting the decreases (no chart for the decreasing part so head back up a little to see the written instructions!).

mitten pattern

Click the image to open it bigger!

And there you have it, your Onni mittens are now ready (you see, I told you they would work up in no time)!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and will be making all the mittens for the winter!

xx, Kati

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