Knitting Tutorials

Pattern Writing: Canva for Makers


Hi friends! Today’s post will be a little on the long side, but I hope you’ll stick with me because I’ll be sharing my all-time favorite Canva tips & tricks with you! In this Canva for makers post I will share some of the reasons I love the website so much and give you a more in-depth look at what you should be paying attention to while writing up your patterns with Canva. And to wrap things up, I’m also showing you my favorite free Canva templates that’d work perfectly as cover pages for your patterns with all free fonts & other elements + 2 model pages for the written instructions!

So if you’re ready, let’s get started!

Disclaimer: all the opinions in this blog post are my own and this post is in no way affiliated with or sponsored by Canva. If you use Canva media in your designs/products, make sure you’re familiar with the Canva license agreements.

Why I love Canva

Canva is an amazing free tool for so many design needs and especially for pattern writing! Once you get comfy with the website and find/create templates you love, you’ll notice that writing up patterns becomes an absolute breeze and something you actually enjoy doing.

To keep things simple & sweet, here are 3 things I love about Canva!

It’s free. Canva offers so many amazing features for free from fonts to illustrations to images to templates, you name it. I feel like this is a major plus especially if you’re just getting started on your maker journey and are looking for affordable and easy-access ways to find your style and create your brand image, and in the long run it allows you to explore different looks and designs as you & your brand grow and develop!

It’s simple. When I think about Canva, I think about boxes: all the elements are sort of in their own boxes that can be separate or grouped together, and moved freely on the document. Canva offers SO MANY different design sizes (A4 for documents, Instagram stories, Youtube thumbnails, Pinterest graphics, and maaaaaany more) and each design size includes tens and tens of different ready templates, or you could also start from scratch if you wanted to make the design yourself. As you can imagine, this gives endless possibilities when it comes to writing patterns and making other material for your creative business, yet things don’t get overly complicated!

It’s easy. Once you have your pattern template ready, all that’s left is to copy it for your future patterns. This allows you to work much faster and also enjoy the hard work you put in while were creating the template – just update the template to match your new knit/crochet/macramé/insert-craft-here design and you’re good to go!

A closer look

Okay, now let’s get a little more specific! Here are the things I pay attention to while writing patterns on Canva:

The template. As I mentioned before, Canva is full of amazing free templates you can easily edit to fit your personal design needs. I especially love templates for the cover pages of my patterns, and later in the post I’m sharing my favorite free templates for pattern covers! To me, a pattern is allowed to and should look like you – the more you can make it fun and personal, the better!

The pictures. Make sure you’re using high quality pictures of your products to showcase your awesome new design. Your customers want to see how you style your new piece, what it looks like up close and just how amazing it really is! Note here that if you add multiple pictures, you’ll want to make sure your pictures aren’t too big – this will easily make your pattern PDF unnecessarily heavy. Before importing pictures to Canva, make sure you’ve reduced their size to under 1MB per picture.

The fonts. When it comes to fonts, I’d definitely go with less is more. Try to stick to 2-3 fonts: pick bolder ones for headings and something more basic for the body text. The most important thing is that your text is easy to read, and a font that allows you to make the text bold, write in italics and underline parts is a big plus for when you want to highlight parts of your text! Here are elements you can change in your text boxes:

  • The font: so many to choose from!
  • Font size
  • Text color
  • Boldness, italics and underline
  • Alignment
  • Uppercase
  • Listing
  • Letter spacing & line height

The colors. Let your brand colors show in your pattern PDF! Whether it’s in background colors, heading colors, illustrations colors, make sure you stay true to your style. My favorite tool for finding matching colors is Coolors – it allows you to generate color schemes and make palettes that are the perfect support for your brand identity! Another cool website for making color palettes is Kaboompics, that lets you search for images (let’s say you’re looking for color inspiration based on peonies or Italy), and once you find a picture that matches your vibe it gives you the color palette + all the color codes. How awesome is that!

The elements. Canva has an amazing library of different types of elements like shapes, grids and illustrations that come in handy when you’re typing out your pattern. And so many wonderful items are available in the free version of Canva! I love using different shapes in the background of my text to further highlight what’s important or simply as a design choice, pictures can be put in frames to give them a new life and they also have a bunch of social media icons – all these things take your patterns to the next level and make them look professional and finished!

A thing to keep in mind when it comes to text boxes is that each individual text box is its own entity, and if you want to change a text characteristic and apply it to the entire document, you’ll have to do so separately in every single text box (I haven’t found a way to change the font of the entire document like you would do on Word for example). But personally this has never slowed me down!

Putting it all together. Let’s say you’ve now decided on the fonts you want to use and have created the first heading + text body combination. Instead of always starting from scratch, try grouping these two text boxes together, after which you can duplicate the newly created box of elements and change the text as needed. This is a step that helps you save time and keeps you from repeating the same steps over and over! In fact any items can be grouped together on Canva – be it text with text, text with pictures, pictures with shapes, and so on.

Locking elements. Sometimes you might want to group some elements of the template together, but not all of them, yet items you don’t wish to include are too close and get grouped into your selection. Not to worry! You can lock elements that are on your template, which means as long as they’re locked they won’t move and therefore won’t bother you when you’re moving boxes/pictures/shapes around your document. Super practical!

Page numbering. There’s no automatic page numbering but this can be easily solved – just insert a text box in the corner of the document and write the page number there!

Duplicating pages. Once you’re happy with the look of your page layout, click the ‘Copy page’ icon above the page on the right and it’ll copy the entire page and add it below. This way, you’ll have your headings, text bodies, colors, page numbers + all other possible elements ready where they need to be and all you need to do is change the text to match your pattern (and manually change the page number as well)!

Duplicating designs. When all the hard work is done, give yourself a round of applauds – another pattern successfully typed out! To make your life even easier in the future, you can make copies of existing designs and use the same template for all your patterns, making pattern writing more efficient & fun!

My favorite free templates

I also wanted to share with you my favorite free templates from the Canva template library that I think would be perfect for pattern cover pages! I’m also including two examples of text pages that I put together myself to show how you can go about writing the actual pattern. All the elements in the templates can be changed (colors, fonts, text sizes, etc.) and they’re all free, giving you lots of creative freedom!

The design size on Canva for these is A4.



  • Lora (size 24, letter spacing 0, line height 1.2)
  • Moontime (size 126, letter spacing 0, line height 0.68)


  • #e8e0db
  • #c89f9c



  • Playfair Display (size 26, italics, letter spacing 0, line height 1.4)
  • Playfair Display (size 40, bold, uppercase, letter spacing 0, line height 1.2)


  • #e8e0db


  • Glacial Indifference (size 19, italics, letter spacing 200, line height 1.17)
  • Bebas Neue (size 88, bold, letter spacing 130, line height 0.96)
  • Glacial Indifference (size 19, letter spacing 200, line height 1.17)
  • Glacial Indifference (size 17, letter spacing 87, line height 1.36)
  • Glacial Indifference (size 17, bold, uppercase, letter spacing 60, line height 1.17)


  • #edd7d6


  • Glacial Indifference (size 23, uppercase, letter spacing 118, line height 1.4)
  • Poppins Light (size 73, uppercase, letter spacing 40, line height 1.1)
  • Glacial Indifference (size 15, letter spacing 70, line height 1.4)


  • #edd7d6


  • Poppins Light (size 24, bold, uppercase, letter spacing 0, line height 1.4)
  • Moontime (size 70, letter spacing 0, line height 1.4)


  • #a67575

Model pages

Here’s some inspiration on how you can go about designing the actual page layout of the written pattern – here too the sky’s the limit when it comes to fonts, colors and all other elements you feel like adding!

  • Headings: Glacial Indifference, size 16, bold, uppercase, letter spacing 70, line height 1.4
  • Body text: Glacial Indifference, size 12, letter spacing 70, line height 1.4
  • Color: #edd7d6

  • Headings: Moontime, size 36, letter spacing 0, line height 1.4
  • Body text: Glacial Indifference, size 12, letter spacing 70, line height 1.4
  • Color: #e8e0db

I hope this blog post gave a new boost to your pattern writing habits and that you found the tips & trick insightful! At the end of the day, a lot of pattern writing and figuring out the design is the product of putting your mind to work and doing the creative work to find your own style. So don’t be afraid to explore, to try different designs and to always be willing to learn new things!

Knitting Tutorials

Maker Tip: How Much Yarn Did You Use

how much yarn

Hi friends! Today I’m coming to you with a little maker tip on how to determine exactly how much yarn you used for your project!

Let’s start with the information you’ll need:
– Weight of full skein (in grams)
– Yardage / Meters of full skein
– Weight of your project (in grams)

Tools needed:
– Kitchen scale (to weigh your project)
– Calculator (like the one on your phone)

If you don’t have the label of the full skein on you anymore, you can always search the yarn you used online and find the information either on the yarn brand’s website or Ravelry, just to name a few! This method works for projects that use a single color.

And then onto the calculations!

Step 1: Weigh your project on a kitchen scale
Step 2: Divide project weight by full skein weight
Step 3: Multiply the yardage (or meters) of the full skein by the number obtained in Step 2


Let’s say I had a full skein of yarn that weighed 200g and had 220 meters of yarn in it, and I knit a pair of socks.

Step 1: I weigh my project and find out it weighs 180 grams
Step 2: I divide the project weight by the full skein weight 180g/200g = 0.9
Step 3: I multiply the yardage (or meters) of the full skein by the number from Step 2 : 0.9 x 220m = 198m

And voilà, I have the exact amount of yarn I used for my project which, in this case, would be 198 meters!

Understanding the calculations: in step 2, by dividing the project weight by the full skein weight, you’ll end up having a percentage. 180 grams of 200 grams is 90% (or 0,9). As you now have a percentage, you can use it to multiply the yardage of the full skein to have the equivalent of the percentage in yards or meters as well, instead of only grams.

Looking for more maker tips? Check out my post on pattern writing!

Knitting Tutorials

Knitting Tutorial: 10-stitch Left Leaning Cable

left leaning cable

If I had to pick one knitting technique/texture to use for the rest of my life, that’d definitely be cables. I absolutely LOVE cables! They’re easy, quick to learn and add amazing texture and detail to any knit piece. I’ve used them in all my beanie designs and have a few cable sock designs coming out as well. This big, 10-stitch cable will be used in one of them so let’s get to the instructions!

A left leaning cable is made by slipping stitches onto a cable needle in front of the work. All simple cables work the same way and these instructions can therefore be used for any sized left leaning cable: by adjusting the number of stitches slipped onto the cable needle you’ll be able to vary the size of the cable! For example if you’d like to make a 6-stitch cable, you’d slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle, knit 3 and then knit the stitches on the cable needle and so on. But in this one, we’re slipping 5 stitches onto the cable needle, leaving them in front of the work, knitting 5 stitches and then knitting the stitches on the cable needle. In my patterns, I’d name this C10F: the cable is 10 stitches in size and the cable turn is made in the front.

My beautiful yarn is Worsted Superwash Merino in the colorway Peony by Unicorn Yarn Co, find all her amazing yarns here!

So let’s get to the pictures!

left leaning cable

Step 1: slip 5 stitches purlwise (one by one) onto the cable needle in front of the work. Slipping the stitches purlwise is essential – you don’t want to twist them!

left leaning cable

After step one, your cable needle or extra DPN should look like this!

left leaning cable

If you do your cables with a DPN, align the needle with your left needle so that you have space and can comfortably knit 5 stitches from the left needle.

left leaning cable

Step 2: knit 5 stitches from the left needle like you normally would.

left leaning cable

5 stitches done, now onto the stitches that are waiting on the cable needle!

left leaning cable

Step 3: knit 5 stitches from the cable needle.

left leaning cable

And voilà, your cable is ready – easy, fun and look at that texture!

I also have a tutorial for the little lace stitch on both sides of the big cable, find it here!

I’ll be off to knit some more cables now, I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

xx, Kati

Knitting Tutorials

Knitting Tutorial: St.John’s Wort Lace Stitch in the Round

lace stitch

Hi guys! Today’s post is all about the St.John’s Wort lace stitch knit in the round: I love the vibe of this stitch as it looks like a tiny cable and creates a beautiful and delicate detail into your knit piece! I’m currently knitting a pair of socks with this simple lace pattern and it’s blown my mind away with its ease and elegance.

st.john's wort lace stitch

How pretty does it look with the big cable!

This 3-stitch pattern is repeated over 4 rounds and it’s fun, easy and creates a cable-like look without a cable needle! Here are the written instructions:

Round 1: slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over
Round 2: knit 1 stitch, yarn over, knit 1 stitch
Round 3: knit 3 stitches
Round 4: knit 3 stitches

Repeat rounds 1-4, and there you have it!

NOTE: If you want to make multiple of these next to each other, the pattern changes a little:

Round 1: *slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3 stitches*
Round 2: *knit 1 stitch, yarn over, knit 4 stitches*
Round 3: *knit 3 stitches, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over*
Round 4: *knit 4 stitches, yarn over, knit 1 stitch*

The pattern now consists of 6 stitches, that you can repeat for as many times as needed per round. Rounds 1-4 are repeated.

But back to the 3-stitch version, and trust me when I say I got you covered; here’s a bunch of tutorial pictures for rounds 1 and 2, and even a Youtube video tutorial at the end of the post!

lace stitch

Round 1: slip 1 stitch purlwise…

lace stitch

…and pass it onto the right needle!

lace stitch

Knit 2 stitches.

lace stitch

Pass the slipped stitch…

lace stitch

…over the two knit stitches.

lace stitch

TADAA this is what it looks like after round 1!

lace stitch

Round 2: start by knitting one stitch.

lace stitch

Bring the yarn to the front…

lace stitch

…and yarn over.

lace stitch

Knit 1 stitch.

lace stitch

Et voilà, round 2 done!

In the video tutorial below I included all rounds (1-4), and if you’re not yet subscribing to my Youtube channel you definitely should!

To wrap things up, my obsession level is at 100 and I have a feeling you’ll be seeing a LOT more of this lace stitch in my future projects!

xx, Kati

Knitting Patterns Tutorials

Free knitting pattern: The Bonheur Cowl

Hey guys! I’m SO EXCITED to present to you my first free knitting pattern and tutorial: The Bonheur Cowl! It’s a mix of all my favorite knitting techniques, and if you’ve ever taken a look at my Instagram feed you’ll know that they include cables, cables, cables…and cables. In this cowl, I’m combining simple cables that run in the middle of the piece to two braided cables on each side of the cowl, and in between the cables we’ll be knitting garter stitch. The cowl is worked in the flat and seamed together after finishing.

In this post, in addition to the full written instructions, you’ll also find a video tutorial for the cables and step-by-step tutorial pictures on how to master knitting all the cables, how to bind off stitches and also how to easily seam together the cast-on and bind-off edges. So don’t be scared if you’ve never knit cables before, I’m here to guide you from the very first stitch all the way until you’ve weaved in the last end! And after you’ve become the master of knitting the basic cables, I’m sure you’ll find that you can use them in SO MANY knitting projects you won’t even believe it (or you’ll end up like me and use them in ALL of your knits…)!

Also if at any point you have any questions or problems, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment on this post or send me an email at – like I already mentioned before, I’m here for you!

So let’s get started!


The finished product is approximately 30cm / 12 inches high and 68cm / 27 inches around.


  • Approximately 200m / 218 yards of bulky yarn with the following gauge:
    – 10 x 10cm / 4 x 4″ of stockinette stitch = 11 stitches, 14 rows
    if you prefer knitting with either a lighter or a bulkier weight yarn you can definitely do so: as a cowl is not a fitted piece like a beanie or a sweater would be, it’s not dangerous if you don’t reach the above mentioned gauge! Though note that if you choose a different yarn weight the finished product won’t be the same size.
  • 8mm / US size 11 single pointed or circular needles (I use 60cm / 24 inch circular needles)
  • Cable needle or a double pointed needle (I use a double pointed needle when knitting the cable turns)
  • Tapestry needle

free knitting pattern


K = Knit stitch
P = Purl stitch
SL1K = Slip 1 stitch knitwise
C6F = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 stitches from cable needle.
C6B = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave in back of work. Knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 stitches from cable needle.

free knitting pattern

The cowl

In order to keep the pattern as clear and easy-to-read as possible, I decided to add the video tutorial + the tutorial pictures + the pattern notes at the end of the pattern, where I will further break down the details of the different steps!

To create chain edges on both sides of the work, the first stitch of every row is always slipped knitwise (SL1K) and the last stitch of every row is always purled (P1). The braided cables on the sides have cable turns every 4th row and the two cables in the middle have cable turns every 8th row. The cable turns are made on the right side of the work.

In between the cables you’ll knit garter stitch which means these stitches will be knit both on the wrong side and the right side of the work.

Start by casting on 41 stitches on your 8mm / US size 11 single pointed or circular needles and start by knitting the first row of the pattern on the wrong side of the work:

Row 1: SL1K, P9, K3, P6, K3, P6, K3, P10 (wrong side)
Row 2: SL1K, K39, P1 (right side)
Row 3: SL1K, P9, K3, P6, K3, P6, K3, P10 (WS)
Row 4: SL1K, C6F, K27, C6B, P1 (RS)
Row 5: SL1K, P9, K3, P6, K3, P6, K3, P10 (WS)
Row 6: SL1K, K39, P1 (RS)
Row 7: SL1K, P9, K3, P6, K3, P6, K3, P10 (WS)
Row 8: SL1K, K3, C6B, K3, C6B, K3, C6B, K3, C6F, K3, P1 (RS)

Repeat rows 1-8 for 12 more times (so you’ll knit the rows for a total of 13 times) and finish by knitting row 1 once more. The easiest way to keep track of the number of rows is to count the cable turns: you have knit the rows 13 times as soon as you have 13 cable turns in the middle cables! Also if you want to make the cowl longer you can keep on repeating the rows for as long as desired – just make sure you bind off on the right side!

Bind off stitches on the right side of the work in the following way:

  1. Knit 2 stitches.
  2. Using your left needle, lift the first stitch on your right needle over the second stitch and drop it off the needle.
  3. Knit 1 stitch.
  4. Repeat step 2, and keep repeating steps 2-3 until you have only 1 stitch left on your right needle. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (you’ll use this tail to seam the edges together), thread through the remaining stitch and pull gently to secure the work.

To seam together the cast-on and bind-off edges you’ll use the mattress stitch, so make sure you align the edges right sides facing up and that all the cables match. Seam the edges together (use the long tail that was left after binding off) by threading the yarn under the horizontal stitches that you’ll find at the stem of the cast-on / bind-off edges. Pick up one stitch per edge at a time and move between the edges, always threading under matching stitches.  Seam all the way up until the end and weave in the tail.

Okay, now lets get visual!

free knitting pattern

Here’s an overall picture of how all the cables and garter stitch look like together – as you can see the pattern is fairly simple and we’re only knitting two different types of cables! In the next picture collages I’m going to show you in detail how to knit the C6F and C6B, how to bind off stitches and also how to seam the cast-on and bind-off edges together. But let’s start with the video tutorial I made to demonstrate row 8 and how to knit the cables!

Video tutorial: The cables


free knitting pattern

free knitting pattern

free knitting pattern


free knitting pattern

free knitting pattern

Binding off

free knitting pattern

Seaming: The mattress stitch

free knitting pattern

And last but not least, pattern notes!

So on the first row of the pattern we’re obviously setting the base for the whole cowl: the chain edges, the cables and the garter stitch. As I already wrote earlier, the first and the last stitch of every row are dedicated to making the chain edges and you won’t be working any pattern on these. The stitches that make the cables are purled on the wrong side so that they’ll always look like knit stitches on the right side, and the 3-stitch garter stitch parts between the cables are knitted on both sides of the work. So here’s what’s what on row 1:

Row 1: SL1K (chain edge), P9 (1st braided cable), K3 (garter stitch), P6 (middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), P6 (middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), P10 (2nd braided cable + last stitch of row) (wrong side)

The braided cables consist of 9 stitches respectively and the middle cables consist of 6 stitches respectively. Let’s have a closer look at row 2 as well:

Row 2: SL1K (chain edge), K39, P1 (chain edge) (right side)

Now thanks to the garter stitch, all the stitches of the right side of the work are being knitted. The only exception to this are the first and last stitches on which we don’t work the pattern but make the chain edge instead.

Row 3 is exactly the same as row 1, so we can move on to the details of row 4, where we make the first cable turns of the braided cables on the sides:

Row 4: SL1K (chain edge), C6F (1st cable turn of the 1st braided cable, worked on the first 6 stitches of the 9-stitch cable), K27, C6B (1st cable turn of the 2nd braided cable, worked on the last 6 stitches of the 9-stitch cable), P1 (RS)

So in order to give the cable the braided look, you’re going to alter between knitting C6F and C6B every 4th row of the pattern. You’ll work the cable on 6 stitches – either at the beginning or at the end of the 9 stitch cable pattern. This way, the cables will turn in different directions every 4th row and create a braid. Note that on the first braided cable, the first cable turn is a C6F at the beginning of the 9-stitch cable, and on the second braided cable at the other edge the first cable turn is a C6B at the end of the 9-stitch cable – this way the braided cables are each other’s reflections!

Row 5 is knit exactly like row 1. 

Row 6 is knit exactly like row 2. 

Row 7 is knit exactly like row 1. 

Row 8: SL1K (chain edge), K3 (first 3 stitches of the braided cable), C6B (2nd cable turn of the 1st braided cable, worked on the last 6 stitches of the 9 stitch cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6B (1st cable turn of the middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6B (1st cable turn of the middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6F (2nd cable turn of the 2nd braided cable, worked on the first 6 stitches of the 9 stitch cable), K3 (the last 3 stitches of the braided cable), P1 (chain edge) (RS)

On the 8th row of the pattern you’ll knit cable turns on all of the cables: on the braided cables you’ll make the cable turn in the opposite direction than on the 4th row, and this is the first time you’ll make cable turns on the middle cables as well. After the 8th row you’ll start the pattern again on the 1st row and keep on knitting rows 1-8 until the cowl has reached the desired size!

xx, Kati