Another day, another beautiful beanie! I can’t tell you enough how much I love quick and simple knits full of texture and fun stitch ideas. One of my maker BFF’s Stef from Steffer Knits Studios sent me her newest beanie design, The Linen Texture Hat and as soon as I’d finished Ginny’s Pinecrest Beanie I knew I couldn’t wait to get started on Stef’s gorgeous pattern! Luckily I had enough Phil Looping left and after last night’s classic just one more row situation I finally finished the hat this morning and ughhh is it a beauty!
The Linen Texture Hat uses super bulky (#6) yarn that I, as usual, substituted with double stranded Phil Looping. I made the brim a little shorter than in the original pattern and used a *k1, p1* ribbing, and went for my 8mm needles for the brim. THIS was a total game changer! I feel like my brims stretch out far too much for my liking with the 10mm needles, so after knitting the brim with the 8mm needles I changed into the 10’s for the body of the beanie and it was smooth sailing from start to finish.
I absolutely love the texture of this hat – it’s elegant, beautiful and despite the super bulky yarn it doesn’t have a heavy feel or overall look. The beanie is super soft, it fits nicely and feels soooooo comfy! It’s another beginner friendly design that knits up in no time and, if necessary, can in my opinion be easily adjusted to fit different size circumferences. The pattern comes with two sets of instructions for 2 different yarns which is always a big plus!
So to wrap up today’s beanie, you should definitely get a copy of the pattern and get knitting because you’ll absolutely love it!
Hi thereee! I love coming up with original patterns and I’m totally a fan of the whole process that comes with it; the knitting, the tweaking, the testing, the typing and the picture-snapping, but sometimes it feels SO GOOD to just sit down with a beautiful pattern designed by someone else! Ginny from Aspen Leaf Knits was a total sweetheart and sent me the pattern for her Pinecrest Beanie and I wanted to show you guys a little how it looks and tell you what a wonderful (and relaxing) time I had knitting mine up!
As I don’t live anywhere near to a yarn shop that would have Lion Brand in their selection, I always have to make the tiniest adjustments to patterns that call for Wool Ease Thick & Quick. So I relied, once again, on my go-to yarn aka Phil Looping by Phildar, this time held double stranded, and I also went for my biggest needles, the 10mm ones. And oh my gosh how weird did the big needles feel like in the beginning! It’s been a hot minute since I needed to dig out the good old 10s, but luckily after a few brim rounds things got a whole lot easier and smoother!
Obviously matched my nails to the beanie…
I usually do something else while knitting – be it listening to music or a podcast, or watching Netflix – but this beanie had me in almost a trans-like knitting state (let’s say that’s a thing alright) and I didn’t even miss any background noise! It was just me and a beautiful blush pink yarn on a Sunday morning while B was still asleep and I kid you not, it was exactly as poetic and romantic as it sounds.
So in short, the Pinecrest Beanie is a total pleasure to knit. It’s 100% beginner friendly, knits up in literally no time (mine was ready in under 2 hours) and you just want to keep going after you finish the first one! It’s everything I love in a design: simple and elegant, yet full of amazing texture that both looks AND feels good. The perfect pattern for your next knitting project!
Hi there folks, so glad to see you’ve found your way to this free mitten pattern so let me present to you: The Onni Mittens! Onni is the Finnish word for happiness and if you ask me, keeping your hands warm when the first snow falls and you’re drinking hot chocolate from a take away cup while enjoying the cool, crisp air should definitely be the dictionary definition of comfy (might’ve gotten a little poetic there but let me have my delusions about the perfect winter that doesn’t include rain, wind that makes the snow hurt your face and gloomy skies!). But anyway, back to the mittens. They have an intermediate cable pattern, a double cuff and thanks to the bulky yarn, they work up in no time!
In this free pattern you’ll find full written instructions on how to make the mittens from start to finish and a knitting chart for the pattern as well. The pattern is actually worked like any other cable pattern or chart would be (even if it doesn’t really look like traditional cables…) but don’t let the cables scare you – once you get the hang of the pattern you’ll be knitting the mittens up in no time! There’s also a tutorial on my blog for a cabled cowl which includes a video on how to knit basic and braided cables (the video doesn’t include the cables used in this design but it gives you a better overall idea of how to slip stitches in the front or the back side of the work and so creating cables)! In this mitten pattern, by slipping stitches onto the cable needle you’re actually changing the places of the knit and purl stitches and this way creating the diamond like shape.
If at any point you have any questions don’t hesitate to leave a comment on this post or send me an email at email@example.com!
Also if you share a picture of the mittens on Instagram, please tag me @katimaariaknits and use the hashtag #onnimittens – I can’t wait to see your designs! You may also sell the finished product but please give credit to the designer.
One size, will fit an average woman. Length with the cuff folded: approximately 24cm/9.4 inches
Yarn & needle variations
First things first: if you identify yourself as a tight knitter, opt for bigger needles!
The pattern is designed for bulky yarn (weight category #5) and 6mm/US 10 needles. If you wish to make the mittens more chunky you can choose a bulkier yarn or for example knit with double stranded bulky yarn (like I did with the pink mittens)but keep the needle size at 6mm/US 10 or any needle size to obtain the gauge. I’ve found that this way, you’ll get more texture to the work but as the needle size remains the same and rather small for chunkier yarn, the gauge doesn’t radically change and you can still follow this pattern from start to finish.
For example, the chunky pink mittens in the pictures are knit with double stranded bulky yarn(Phil Looping by Phildar, find it here!) using 6mm/US 10 needles.
The grey mittens are knit with double stranded worsted yarn(Alpaca Wool by Novita, find it here!) using 6mm/US 10 needles, making the yarn an equivalent to a category #5 yarn.
6mm/US 10 DPNs or any needles to obtain the gauge (if you’re a tight knitter, give 8mm/US 11 needles a try for example!)
Approximately 100m/109 yards of bulky yarn (weight category #5) with the following gauge: 10x10cm/4×4″ of stockinette stitch with 6mm/US 10 needles = 14 stitches, 22 rows
Cable needle or extra DPN
A little piece of contrasting color yarn for the thumb hole
K = knit
P = purl
M1 = make one stitch by picking up the yarn in between two stitches with your left needle and knitting it through the back loop
C3F = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch and then knit 1 stitch from cable needle.
C2B = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in back of work. Knit 1 stitch and then purl 1 from cable needle.
C2F = slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Purl 1 stitch and then knit 1 from cable needle.
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
Skp = slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch
Cast on 24 stitches on your 6mm/US 10 needles. Work the mittens with 4 needles: keep the work on 3 needles in a triangle shape and knit with the fourth one. Share the stitches evenly so that you have 8 stitches per needle. The beginning of the round is between the 1st and the 3rd needle (see needle map below!).
Click the image to open it bigger!
Join the work in the round and *K1, P1* all around (round 1) and repeat round 1 for another 17 times, knitting a total of 18 rounds for the cuff or until it measures 10cm/4 inches.
1st needle: no increases, knit 8 stitches
2nd needle: increase 3 stitches evenly, for example in the following way:
K1, M1, K3, M1, K3, M1, K1
3rd needle: no increases, knit 8 stitches
After the increases, you’ll have 27 stitches on the work: 8 stitches on needle 1, 11 stitches on needle 2 and 8 stitches on needle 3. You’ll knit stockinette stitch on the 1st and the 3rd needle until the end of the mitten and work the cable pattern on the 2nd needle.
The following written instructions are only for the 2nd needle, knit stockinette stitch on the 1st and the 3rd needle.
The knitting chart for the cable pattern can be found at the end of the post!
Repeat rounds 1-12 twice more (you’ll knit the rounds three times total) and finish by knitting round 1 once more before starting the decreases.
When you’re knitting rounds 1-12 for the second time, make the thumb hole onround 4(round 16 on the total row count after starting the cable pattern).
For the right mitten, make the thumb hole on the 3rd needle: knit 2 stitches, then knit 4 stitches with a contrasting color yarn and move these 4 stitches back to the left hand needle. Finish the needle by knitting stockinette stitch and continue onto round 5.
For the left mitten, make the thumb hole on the 1st needle: knit 2 stitches, then knit 4 stitches with a contrasting color yarn and move these 4 stitches back to the left hand needle. Finish the needle by knitting stockinette stitch and continue the round normally.
1st needle: K5, K2tog, K1
2nd needle: skp, K7, K2tog
3rd needle: K1, skp, K5
stitch count after the round: 23
1st needle: K4, K2 tog, K1
2nd needle: skp, K5, K2tog
3rd needle: K1, skp, K4
stitch count after the round: 19
1st needle: K3, K2tog, K1
2nd needle: skp, K3, K2tog
3rd needle: K1, skp, K3
stitch count after the round: 15
1st needle: K2, K2tog, K1
2nd needle: skp, K1, K2tog
3rd needle: K1, skp, K2
stitch count after the round: 11
1st needle: K1, K2tog, K1
2nd needle: K3
3rd needle: K1, skp, K1
stitch count after the round: 9
Cut yarn and pull through remaining 9 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.
Remove the help yarn and pick up the 7 stitches the yarn was holding. Pick up 5 extra stitches from around the thumb hole adding the total amount of stitches to 12 (if you want to make a bigger thumb you can pick more stitches from around the thumb hole). Share the stitches evenly on 3 needles so that you have 4 stitches per needle. To avoid stretching the stitches and making holes at the core of the thumb, knit all the stitches through the back loop on the first round. After the first round, continue knitting stockinette stitch until the thumb covers approximately half of your thumb nail.
Decrease byknitting 2 stitches together at the end of every needle (repeat on every round) until you have a total of 6 stitches left on the thumb. Cut yarn and pull through remaining 6 stitches, tighten and secure the end well by weaving in on the wrong side of the work.
And here’s the visual for the cable pattern! After knitting the cuff, you’ll repeat rows 1-12 for a total of three times and then knit row 1 once more before starting the decreases (no chart for the decreasing part so head back up a little to see the written instructions!).
Click the image to open it bigger!
And there you have it, your Onni mittens are now ready (you see, I told you they would work up in no time)!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and will be making all the mittens for the winter!
Hey guys! I’m SO EXCITED to present to you my first free knitting pattern and tutorial: The Bonheur Cowl! It’s a mix of all my favorite knitting techniques, and if you’ve ever taken a look at my Instagram feedyou’ll know that they include cables, cables, cables…and cables. In this cowl, I’m combining simple cables that run in the middle of the piece to two braided cables on each side of the cowl, and in between the cables we’ll be knitting garter stitch. The cowl is worked in the flat and seamed together after finishing.
In this post, in addition to the full written instructions, you’ll also find a video tutorial for the cables and step-by-step tutorial pictures on how to master knitting all the cables, how to bind off stitches and also how to easily seam together the cast-on and bind-off edges. So don’t be scared if you’ve never knit cables before, I’m here to guide you from the very first stitch all the way until you’ve weaved in the last end! And after you’ve become the master of knitting the basic cables, I’m sure you’ll find that you can use them in SO MANY knitting projects you won’t even believe it (or you’ll end up like me and use them in ALL of your knits…)!
Also if at any point you have any questions or problems, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment on this post or send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org – like I already mentioned before, I’m here for you!
So let’s get started!
The finished product is approximately 30cm / 12 inches high and 68cm / 27 inches around.
Approximately 200m / 218 yards of bulky yarn with the following gauge:
– 10 x 10cm / 4 x 4″ of stockinette stitch = 11 stitches, 14 rows
– if you prefer knitting with either a lighter or a bulkier weight yarn you can definitely do so: as a cowl is not a fitted piece like a beanie or a sweater would be, it’s not dangerous if you don’t reach the above mentioned gauge! Though note that if you choose a different yarn weight the finished product won’t be the same size.
8mm / US size 11 single pointed or circular needles (I use 60cm / 24 inch circular needles)
Cable needle or a double pointed needle (I use a double pointed needle when knitting the cable turns)
K = Knit stitch
P = Purl stitch
SL1K = Slip 1 stitch knitwise
C6F = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave in front of work. Knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 stitches from cable needle.
C6B = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave in back of work. Knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 stitches from cable needle.
In order to keep the pattern as clear and easy-to-read as possible, I decided to add the video tutorial + the tutorial pictures + the pattern notes at the end of the pattern, where I will further break down the details of the different steps!
To create chain edges on both sides of the work, the first stitch of every row is always slipped knitwise (SL1K) and the last stitch of every row is always purled (P1). The braided cables on the sides have cable turns every 4th row and the two cables in the middle have cable turns every 8th row. The cable turns are made on the right side of the work.
In between the cables you’ll knit garter stitch which means these stitches will be knit both on the wrong side and the right side of the work.
Start by casting on 41 stitches on your 8mm / US size 11 single pointed or circular needles and start by knitting the first row of the pattern on the wrong side of the work:
Repeat rows 1-8 for 12 more times (so you’ll knit the rows for a total of 13 times) and finish by knitting row 1 once more. The easiest way to keep track of the number of rows is to count the cable turns: you have knit the rows 13 times as soon as you have 13 cable turns in the middle cables! Also if you want to make the cowl longer you can keep on repeating the rows for as long as desired – just make sure you bind off on the right side!
Bind off stitches on the right side of the work in the following way:
Knit 2 stitches.
Using your left needle, lift the first stitch on your right needle over the second stitch and drop it off the needle.
Knit 1 stitch.
Repeat step 2, and keep repeating steps 2-3 until you have only 1 stitch left on your right needle. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (you’ll use this tail to seam the edges together), thread through the remaining stitch and pull gently to secure the work.
To seam together the cast-on and bind-off edges you’ll use the mattress stitch, so make sure you align the edges right sides facing up and that all the cables match. Seam the edges together (use the long tail that was left after binding off) by threading the yarn under the horizontal stitches that you’ll find at the stem of the cast-on / bind-off edges. Pick up one stitch per edge at a time and move between the edges, always threading under matching stitches. Seam all the way up until the end and weave in the tail.
Okay, now lets get visual!
Here’s an overall picture of how all the cables and garter stitch look like together – as you can see the pattern is fairly simple and we’re only knitting two different types of cables! In the next picture collages I’m going to show you in detail how to knit the C6F and C6B, how to bind off stitches and also how to seam the cast-on and bind-off edges together. But let’s start with the video tutorial I made to demonstrate row 8 and how to knit the cables!
Video tutorial: The cables
Seaming: The mattress stitch
And last but not least, pattern notes!
So on the first row of the pattern we’re obviously setting the base for the whole cowl: the chain edges, the cables and the garter stitch. As I already wrote earlier, the first and the last stitch of every row are dedicated to making the chain edges and you won’t be working any pattern on these. The stitches that make the cables are purled on the wrong side so that they’ll always look like knit stitches on the right side, and the 3-stitch garter stitch parts between the cables are knitted on both sides of the work. So here’s what’s what on row 1:
Now thanks to the garter stitch, all the stitches of the right side of the work are being knitted. The only exception to this are the first and last stitches on which we don’t work the pattern but make the chain edge instead.
Row 3 is exactly the same as row 1, so we can move on to the details of row 4, where we make the first cable turns of the braided cables on the sides:
Row 4: SL1K (chain edge), C6F (1st cable turn of the 1st braided cable, worked on the first 6 stitches of the 9-stitch cable), K27, C6B (1st cable turn of the 2nd braided cable, worked on the last 6 stitches of the 9-stitch cable), P1 (RS)
So in order to give the cable the braided look, you’re going to alter between knitting C6F and C6B every 4th row of the pattern. You’ll work the cable on 6 stitches – either at the beginning or at the end of the 9 stitch cable pattern. This way, the cables will turn in different directions every 4th row and create a braid. Note that on the first braided cable, the first cable turn is a C6F at the beginning of the 9-stitch cable, and on the second braided cable at the other edge the first cable turn is a C6B at the end of the 9-stitch cable – this way the braided cables are each other’s reflections!
Row 5 is knit exactly like row 1.
Row 6 is knit exactly like row 2.
Row 7 is knit exactly like row 1.
Row 8: SL1K (chain edge), K3 (first 3 stitches of the braided cable), C6B (2nd cable turn of the 1st braided cable, worked on the last 6 stitches of the 9 stitch cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6B (1st cable turn of the middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6B (1st cable turn of the middle cable), K3 (garter stitch), C6F (2nd cable turn of the 2nd braided cable, worked on the first 6 stitches of the 9 stitch cable), K3 (the last 3 stitches of the braided cable), P1 (chain edge)(RS)
On the 8th row of the pattern you’ll knit cable turns on all of the cables: on the braided cables you’ll make the cable turn in the opposite direction than on the 4th row, and this is the first time you’ll make cable turns on the middle cables as well. After the 8th row you’ll start the pattern again on the 1st row and keep on knitting rows 1-8 until the cowl has reached the desired size!